How to Remove Fridge and Freezer Odours After a Power Cut
A ground-floor flat off Southwark Park Road in Bermondsey lost power for about thirty hours one August while the owners were in Greece. They came back to a freezer that had thawed, refrozen partially when the supply returned, and then sat closed for nine more days. What was in the bottom drawer had been a whole chicken. By the time I got there the smell was in the hall, and the tenant upstairs had already asked about it.
They had cleaned the fridge twice. Both times they wiped the shelves and the visible walls and both times the smell was back within a day, because they had never followed the liquid.
What happens inside a fridge and freezer when the power goes off?
Temperature is only half the story. The other half is drainage.
An unopened fridge holds food safely for around four hours. A full freezer holds for roughly twenty-four with the door shut, less if it is half empty, because the frozen mass is doing the work rather than the machine. Past that, protein begins to break down, and the bacteria involved produce sulphur compounds, putrescine and cadaverine – the specific molecules that make a spoiled-meat smell so hard to ignore and so persistent.
Meanwhile, everything thaws. Frozen food releases a startling quantity of liquid, and that liquid does not stay in the drawer. It runs under the drawer, through the gap at the back of the shelf, down the rear wall, into the drip channel, and in a fridge it goes into the drain hole and down a tube to the evaporation tray on top of the compressor. In a freezer it pools under the bottom basket and seeps into the seams of the moulded liner.
That is where the smell is. Follow the liquid.
Why some smells go and others stay
Fish, liver, chicken and prawns are the difficult ones, because the compounds released are partly fat-soluble and the interior of every domestic fridge is polypropylene or ABS – plastics that take up fat-soluble odour molecules into their surface. Milk and cheese smell terrible at the time and clean off easily. A leaked bag of frozen prawns will still be detectable in the plastic four washes later.
What do you throw out, and is anything worth saving?
Be harder about this than feels comfortable. The cost of a wrong call is a week of illness.
Anything that has been above 8°C for more than four hours in the fridge goes, and that means all raw meat, fish, cooked leftovers, soft cheese, milk, opened sauces containing dairy or egg, and prepared salads. Hard cheese, butter, unopened jars, condiments and whole uncut fruit and veg are usually fine.
In the freezer, the test is ice crystals. Food still containing visible ice crystals and still at or below 8°C can go back in the freezer, though the texture will suffer. Anything fully thawed can be cooked immediately and eaten or refrozen once cooked, never refrozen raw. Anything thawed and warm, or thawed for an unknown length of time, goes.
Smelling it tells you nothing. Plenty of dangerous food smells fine.
The claim you have probably not thought of
Most contents insurance covers freezer food spoilage, commonly up to £500, and plenty of people bin four hundred pounds of food without checking. Separately, if the outage was a network fault rather than an internal fuse, distribution operators pay compensation under the Guaranteed Standards of Performance – UK Power Networks covers most of London, and the payment for a long unplanned interruption starts around £85 for domestic customers with more added for each further period off supply. Photograph the contents before you bag them.
How do you strip and wash the appliance so it stays clean?
Unplug it, and take everything out that comes out. Every shelf, every drawer, every basket, every door balcony, the salad crisper and the glass cover above it. Most fridge shelves lift out with a quarter-turn once you have found the tab. Wash them in the bath, not the sink – there is more room and the temptation to skip the awkward ones goes away.
Hot water and washing-up liquid first, to lift the fat. That comes before any deodorising step, because bicarbonate on a greasy surface does nothing at all.
Then the cabinet interior. Warm water with a couple of tablespoons of bicarbonate of soda per litre, a cloth, and every surface including the ceiling of the compartment and the underside of every shelf runner. Get into the moulded ridges along the side walls, where the shelf supports are, because liquid runs down those channels and sits.
Now the parts nobody does.
The door seal is a magnetic gasket with a folded lip, and it lifts open along its length. Peel it back gently and run a cloth inside the fold, all the way round, on both doors. In the Bermondsey flat that fold held a brown residue the whole length of the freezer door.
The drain hole sits at the base of the rear wall of the fridge compartment, a small hole in a moulded gutter, usually with a plastic pip in it. It blocks. Clear it with a cotton bud, then flush a syringe or a turkey baster of warm bicarbonate solution down it, and check that water arrives in the tray at the back. If that tube is holding spoiled liquid, you can wash the interior all week and the smell will keep coming back through the vent. Follow the liquid.
Pull the appliance out and look at the evaporation tray sitting on the compressor housing. It slides out on most models. Empty it, wash it, dry it, put it back.
The bits underneath and behind
While the fridge is away from the wall, vacuum the condenser coils at the back and the floor beneath it, which in a London kitchen holds a decade of crumbs and the odd fossilised pea. Wipe down the outside of the cabinet, the top, and the sides where they were inaccessible. This has nothing to do with the smell and everything to do with the fact that you will not move this appliance again for two years.
What removes the residual smell, and what is a waste of time?
Air first. Leave the doors open for as long as you can bear – forty-eight hours if the household will tolerate a warm kitchen, with a fan pointed into the compartment if you have one. Airflow does more than any absorbent.
Then bicarbonate of soda, which works, though not in the way people think. An open box does very little. A shallow tray of it spread thin, giving surface area, left in the closed appliance for two or three days and then replaced, does a reasonable amount. Activated charcoal from an aquarium shop outperforms it and costs about the same.
Fresh coffee grounds work by masking, and you get a fridge that smells of stale coffee and old chicken. Vanilla essence on cotton wool, the same. A cut onion or a bowl of vinegar left inside does nothing useful.
Chlorine bleach is the mistake I see most. It taints the plastic, the taint is absorbed the same way the original odour was, and you have swapped one persistent smell for another in a food-contact space. Warm water, detergent, and bicarbonate solution are enough for the wash. If you want a sanitising step after, use a food-safe alcohol spray or a dilute white vinegar solution, and rinse.
If it is still there after a week
Repeat the wash, but this time on the plastic itself use a bicarbonate paste, thick, left on the walls for an hour before rinsing. Then run the appliance empty and cold for two days with a fresh tray of charcoal in it. Cold plastic releases less.
When is the smell permanent, and what happens then?
Sometimes the liquid gets past the liner. There are seams at the corners of every moulded interior and a gap around the drain fitting, and if spoiled liquid has run through into the polyurethane foam insulation behind, no cleaning reaches it. The foam is an open sponge, it is sealed between the liner and the outer casing, and it will emit for years, worse when the appliance warms.
The tells are these: the smell is strongest when the compressor has been running, it is worse near the back wall than the front, it returns within hours of a full clean, and it has no visible source. Follow the liquid – if you cannot find where it went, it went into the wall.
At that point I tell people to stop spending money. Nobody in this trade can fix a contaminated liner, and anyone who quotes you £120 to deep-clean the odour out of one is selling you a wash you have already done twice. Replacement liners are not economically fitted to domestic appliances. If it is a rented flat, the landlord is replacing the fridge freezer, and a photograph of the drain area plus a note of the outage dates is the whole of the argument.
Which brings me to the part that loses me work: none of the above needs a cleaning company. It is a bath, a bottle of washing-up liquid, a box of bicarb and two hours. Where we earn our money is the kitchen around it – the floor the liquid ran onto, the units it wicked under, the skirting.
What it does to the rest of the kitchen
Thaw water travels. It comes out under the door, crosses the floor along whatever fall the joists have given it, and goes under the plinth of the base unit next door, where it sits on chipboard in the dark. A flat in Palmers Green had a clean fridge and a smell that would not leave, and it was in the underside of a kickboard eighteen inches away. Pull the plinths – they clip off – and check with a torch and your nose before you conclude the appliance is finished.
On vinyl or laminate flooring, lift what you can and dry underneath. Laminate that has taken meat liquid through a seam will swell at the joint and hold the smell in the fibreboard core, and that is a flooring job rather than a cleaning one.
The Bermondsey freezer was replaced. The drain tube on the fridge side had held about a tablespoon of liquid, and it smelled of it eleven days on.






